The Classic Indian Creek Crack Camp

Trip Overview

The Classic Indian Creek Crack Camp is for crack climbers of all levels. Note that this camp climbs in areas around Moab and may climb outside of Indian Creek. Led by Mary Eden (@tradprincess) this 3-day immersive Indian Creek Crack climbing experience offers an unmatched opportunity to level up your skills. You’ll climb an impressively high number of  routes, have unlimited access to trad gear, receive individualized coaching from Mary and talented guest instructors.

Over the course of the clinics, we’ll cover the full spectrum of crack climbing technique: from fingers to fists, wide crack strategy, gear placements, tape gloves, leading, technical systems, and more.

Past participants have called this clinic the most significant experience of their climbing careers — not just for the volume of training and exposure to Moab and Indian Creek classics, but for the partnerships and friendships formed along the way.

Highlights

3 Days of Professional Instruction & Fun!

  • Learn crack technique from Mary Eden (@tradprincess) and friends
  • Train in the center of the crack climbing Universe, Moab and Indian Creek, Utah
  • Develop skills for fingers, hands, fists, and off-widths
  • Get pro tips on taping, shoe selection, and efficient movement
  • Practice gear placement and anchor building in splitter cracks
  • Small groups ensure plenty of personal attention and coaching

Details

Difficulty: Moderate to Hard
Days: 3 days
Minimum Age: 10
Venues: Indian Creek and Moab
Meets:  1140 South Main Street, Moab 84532
Dates: Spring and Fall

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The Classic Indian Creek Crack Camp

ADDITIONAL INFO

These clinics are great for anyone with a general 5.9 fitness stoked on crack climbing! They are meant to take your trad/crack climbing to a whole new level. The clinic is led by AMGA single pitch Instructor and Assistant Rock Guide, Mary Eden.

The Classic Crack Camp is for climbers who:

  • Have gym or sport climbing experience and want to learn crack climbing
  • Already climb cracks but want to improve specific skills
  • Want expert coaching from Mary Eden (@tradprincess) and others
  • Are stoked to spend multiple days the legendary sandstone splitters of Indian Creek and Moab

Review – We will review and expand upon your knowledge of the following:

  • Knots
  • Communication
  • Leave No Trace

 

Key concepts:

  • Crack climbing, fingers to fists
  • Wide climbing technique
  • Placing traditional climbing gear
  • Tape gloves
  • Anchoring/cleaning

 

Movement:

  • Crack climbing through the sizes
  • Fingers to Off-width
  • Wide climbing technique
  • Thin crack technique
  • Roof crack technique
  • Movement efficiency
  • General training tips

 

Equipment:

  • What is needed, what is not
  • Selection, proper use, storage and life expectancy

 

Anchoring:

  • What makes a good anchor
  • Traditional gear‚ Cams, nuts and hexes
  • Fixed Hardware, trees and natural features
  • Cleaning

 

Rescue and Retreat:

  • Lowering
  • Rappelling
  • Bailing safely

 

Leading:

  • Clipping
  • Racking for success
  • Strategy and efficiency
  • Route finding

Logistics & Location:

We’ll base Crack Camp out of a group campsite near Moab, Utah, with comfortable 2WD access. On Day 1, we’ll meet at Red River Adventures, arrange carpools, and head to camp before climbing. If you prefer to drive yourself, please arrive with a full tank of gas.

Note that this camp climbs in areas around Moab and may climb outside of Indian Creek.


Camp & Meals:

  • Red River Adventures provides a full group kitchen (cookware, utensils, cleaning supplies) and cooler space for food and drinks.
  • Participants are responsible for bringing their own food for the duration of the clinic.
  • Alcoholic beverages are welcome at camp.
  • We’ll supply enough drinking water for the group throughout the clinic.


Gear:

  • All ropes, anchors, and group climbing equipment will be provided.
  • You’re encouraged to bring your personal gear if you have it — this is a great chance to test it out with guides and get feedback on what works best.
  • A personal packing list will be sent to help you prepare for multiple days of climbing and camping in the desert.


Climbing Location:

Moab and Indian Creek are the epicenter of crack climbing in the U.S. Over the course of the clinic, we’ll climb at a variety of world-class crags in the area. Expect to jam fingers, hands, fists, and more into perfect sandstone splitters, all while camping together each evening and climbing as a group each day.


What’s Provided:

  • All ropes, cams, and anchors needed for the clinic
  • Group kitchen with cookware, utensils, and cleaning supplies
  • Drinking water for the group
  • Group campsite
  • Helmets, harnesses, and shoes (available if needed)


What to Pack (Minimum):

  • Food and snacks (required – Red River Adventures does NOT provide food)
  • Climbing pack
  • Personal camping gear (tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, etc.)
  • Refillable water bottle
  • Comfortable shoes/sandals for camp
  • Weather-appropriate clothing for climbing and camping in the desert

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